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What is a chemical peel?
 

If you use your fingers or a knife to peel an orange you will get the basic understanding of what a chemical peel is. Chemical enzymes are used to remove layers of the skin.

 

Why is this done?
 

It improves the quality of the skin by regenerating “new” skin. It reduces large pores, removes some scars, resolves some pigmentation issues, and decreases fine wrinkling.

 

What are the grades of chemical peels?

 

To explain this, the 5 layers of the skin must be taken into consideration.

The first layer–the stratum corneum– can be removed with micro dermabrasion and dermaplaning as well, when removed with a chemical peel it is considered “exfoliation”.

When the second layer–the Stratum Lucidum– is removed with a chemical peel, it is considered “superficial”.

When the third layer–the Stratum Granulosum– is removed with a chemical peel it is considered “medium”.

When the fourth layer–the Stratum Spinosum– is removed with a chemical peel, it is considered “medium plus”.

 

RSA’s peels go no further than the fourth layer, because any chemical crossing that boundary can cause scarring. Therefore, RSA avoid the fifth layer–the Stratum Basal– is composed of a single layer of cells which divide to produce keratinocytes. RSA’s peel consists of “pure” acids in certain fixed concentrations and percentages that with one pass on the skin for two minutes, followed by a baking soda neutralizing solution, penetrate a depth and layer in the skin based on the acid used. “Buffered” acids are incapable of doing this. Any acid that can be purchased by anyone at anytime without regard for requiring certain qualifications is “buffered”–not pure. “Buffered” acids are capable of removing the first layer of the skin–the stratum corneum–and must be titrated to achieve any results, and they can cause a dark stain on black skin, which changes the pigmentation. Look at RSA’s table comparing pure and buffered peels.

What sites on the body are ideal for chemical peels?

 

The scalp, face, eyelids, hands, neck, back, chest, inner thighs, and buttocks.

 

 

What are the risks of chemical peels?

 

It temporarily changes pigmentation and, if one languishes in the sun, it can result in permanent pigmentation changes. The client must follow aftercare instructions to avoid this. Another risk is scarring if the chemical peel is left too long on the skin. Other risks include keloid formation, epidermolysis (breaking open of the skin), bacterial infection, and viral infection.

 

What is the downtime for an RSA peel?
 

There is no down time- a client can return to work the following day as long as he/she uses the take home regimen.

 

 

What are RSAs categories of chemical peels?
 

The peels are categorized as AHA (alphahydroxy), BHA(betahydroxy),chemical, and combination. The AHA acids are Glycolic 50% and Lactic 50% for aged skin, Citric 30% and which RSA particularly uses for teen acne. The chemical TCA 35% is trichloracetic acid; and the combination is modified jessner for texture, Biomani compound for scars, and eye area peel.

 

 

Preparing the skin for a TCA Chemical Peel
After cleansing the skin with AHA /BHA acid wash, 3 masks are applied to the skin along with steam and High Frequency, as shown below. Lastly, the peel is applied for no more than 2 mins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What are AHA/BHA?
 

Pure, potent acids can be dangerous so clients beware! The practitioner should be qualified to use them. AHA - Alphahydroxy peels are water soluble while BHA- Betahydroxy peels are lipid (oil) soluble. Therefore, the only difference between the two is their lipid solubility. That is why BHA- salicylic acid is used for teen acne over the AHA peels. The BHA-salicylic acid is able to penetrate the sebum that is built up inside the pore. The best clients for chemical peels are those that fall under the Fitzpatrick Skin classification of I, II, and III. Those that fall under classification IV, V, VI is treated on a case by case basis. The fitzpatrick skin classification will be covered in more detail under the consultation topic.

 

 

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